We install: Insulation , cellulose and fiberglass, door sweeps
and weatherstrip, attic ventilation, bathroom vents and fans,
replacement windows, doors, thermadomes for pull-down attic
staircases and Air seal. Sidewall insulation and attic insulation
with blown in cellulose as you can see on our home page.
and weatherstrip, attic ventilation, bathroom vents and fans,
replacement windows, doors, thermadomes for pull-down attic
staircases and Air seal. Sidewall insulation and attic insulation
with blown in cellulose as you can see on our home page.
Serving Massachusetts ,Rhode Island
and surrounding areas.
and surrounding areas.
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Many homes built prior to 1970 have little or no insulation in the wall cavities.
GreenFiber recommends Cocoon loose-fill blown insulation for installation
in sidewall cavities.
To ensure safe installation, insulation should not be installed in stud runs
where heat-producing devices such as an unprotected chimney, recessed
lighting, a fireplace, etc. might cause severe overheating. Examine both the
inside and outside of a home to determine areas inappropriate for
installation. An exterior electrical outlet, for example, could pose a risk.
There are two basic techniques (Two-hole or Double blow method and Insert-
Tube method) used to fill existing, enclosed sidewall cavities. These
techniques can be performed from either the exterior or interior of a home.
The insert-tube method was developed and studied by the University of
Minnesota Underground Space Center as an alternative to the Two-Hole
method.
Two-Hole or Double Blow Method
The two-hole or double blow method is the most frequently used procedure
for installing loose fill insulation in the sidewalls of existing homes.
This method allows air pressure to escape from the upper hole while filling
the cavity from the lower hole. This prevents the cavity from pressurizing and
allows the cavity to be dense packed correctly.
Technique
Drill a hole between two studs approximately 2 1/2 to 3 feet up from the
bottom plate. Drill a second hole approximately one foot below the top plate
in the same stud run. On a multi-story home, repeat this process on each
floor.
Holes approximately 1" in diameter can be drilled directly through siding
material, or holes 2" in diameter can be made in the sheathing after removing
a portion of the siding.
Reducer nozzles for the insulation blowing machine hose are available in 1"
to 2" diameter for sidewall installation.
Air pressure must be adjusted to accommodate wall installation and nozzle
size.
The blowing machine air setting should be adjusted to ensure proper
compacting of insulation and prevent settling in the cavity. More air pressure
is required for sidewall installation than attic installation. All blowing
machines are different and require different settings. Contact the machine
manufacturer for the correct settings.
If the material does not come out of the upper hole when filling the stud
cavity from the bottom hole, there are fire blocks present. In this case, drill
two sets of holes, two above and two below the fire block using the
technique on both sides of the fire block.
Insert the nozzle into the bottom hole first and turn on the blowing machine.
An increase in back pressure causes the blower to strain and alerts the
installer that the cavity is filled and ready for compaction.
When material is no longer flowing through the hose, move the nozzle to the
next hole in the stud cavity. Continue this process until each stud run in the
wall is filled.
Fill the holes using wood, plastic, cork or Styrofoam plugs; replace the siding
if necessary and the job is done.
Insert-Tube Method
Technique
Remove a section of exterior siding and drill a single 2" hole through the
sheathing approximately 1’ from the bottom of the wall.
Attach a 2 ½" to 1" reducer to the main blowing hose.
Attach a 1" diameter tube to the end of the reducer. Cut the end of the tube
on a diagonal to facilitate snaking behind wiring.
Insert cut end of tube into the wall hole and all the way to the top of the stud
cavity. Any fire stops or other obstructions are detected and noted.
The blower is turned on and the insulation is pumped up to the top of the
cavity. The insulation will settle and fill the cavity from the bottom to the top
at a low density.
When the cavity becomes filled, the insulation begins to compact at the top.
An increase in back pressure causes the blower to strain and alerts the
installer that the cavity is filled and ready for compaction. (Caution: Too much
air pressure will cause the dry-wall material to pull away from the framing.)
To complete the job, the tube is slowly withdrawn from the cavity, allowing
the insulation to compact from top to bottom. When the tube reaches the
bottom of the cavity, the tube is turned downward to compact the insulation
in the bottom section of the cavity.
Withdraw the tube, plug the hole, replace the siding and the job is done.
GreenFiber recommends Cocoon loose-fill blown insulation for installation
in sidewall cavities.
To ensure safe installation, insulation should not be installed in stud runs
where heat-producing devices such as an unprotected chimney, recessed
lighting, a fireplace, etc. might cause severe overheating. Examine both the
inside and outside of a home to determine areas inappropriate for
installation. An exterior electrical outlet, for example, could pose a risk.
There are two basic techniques (Two-hole or Double blow method and Insert-
Tube method) used to fill existing, enclosed sidewall cavities. These
techniques can be performed from either the exterior or interior of a home.
The insert-tube method was developed and studied by the University of
Minnesota Underground Space Center as an alternative to the Two-Hole
method.
Two-Hole or Double Blow Method
The two-hole or double blow method is the most frequently used procedure
for installing loose fill insulation in the sidewalls of existing homes.
This method allows air pressure to escape from the upper hole while filling
the cavity from the lower hole. This prevents the cavity from pressurizing and
allows the cavity to be dense packed correctly.
Technique
Drill a hole between two studs approximately 2 1/2 to 3 feet up from the
bottom plate. Drill a second hole approximately one foot below the top plate
in the same stud run. On a multi-story home, repeat this process on each
floor.
Holes approximately 1" in diameter can be drilled directly through siding
material, or holes 2" in diameter can be made in the sheathing after removing
a portion of the siding.
Reducer nozzles for the insulation blowing machine hose are available in 1"
to 2" diameter for sidewall installation.
Air pressure must be adjusted to accommodate wall installation and nozzle
size.
The blowing machine air setting should be adjusted to ensure proper
compacting of insulation and prevent settling in the cavity. More air pressure
is required for sidewall installation than attic installation. All blowing
machines are different and require different settings. Contact the machine
manufacturer for the correct settings.
If the material does not come out of the upper hole when filling the stud
cavity from the bottom hole, there are fire blocks present. In this case, drill
two sets of holes, two above and two below the fire block using the
technique on both sides of the fire block.
Insert the nozzle into the bottom hole first and turn on the blowing machine.
An increase in back pressure causes the blower to strain and alerts the
installer that the cavity is filled and ready for compaction.
When material is no longer flowing through the hose, move the nozzle to the
next hole in the stud cavity. Continue this process until each stud run in the
wall is filled.
Fill the holes using wood, plastic, cork or Styrofoam plugs; replace the siding
if necessary and the job is done.
Insert-Tube Method
Technique
Remove a section of exterior siding and drill a single 2" hole through the
sheathing approximately 1’ from the bottom of the wall.
Attach a 2 ½" to 1" reducer to the main blowing hose.
Attach a 1" diameter tube to the end of the reducer. Cut the end of the tube
on a diagonal to facilitate snaking behind wiring.
Insert cut end of tube into the wall hole and all the way to the top of the stud
cavity. Any fire stops or other obstructions are detected and noted.
The blower is turned on and the insulation is pumped up to the top of the
cavity. The insulation will settle and fill the cavity from the bottom to the top
at a low density.
When the cavity becomes filled, the insulation begins to compact at the top.
An increase in back pressure causes the blower to strain and alerts the
installer that the cavity is filled and ready for compaction. (Caution: Too much
air pressure will cause the dry-wall material to pull away from the framing.)
To complete the job, the tube is slowly withdrawn from the cavity, allowing
the insulation to compact from top to bottom. When the tube reaches the
bottom of the cavity, the tube is turned downward to compact the insulation
in the bottom section of the cavity.
Withdraw the tube, plug the hole, replace the siding and the job is done.
